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Moistened rags or layers of cardboard or paper can be used to cover the vermicompost if the

environment dries quickly.

Experience and observation will tell us if the humidity is correct. Worm skin must have a

wet/fresh appearance. However, a stick hygrometer can be useful for measuring humidity,
especially for the beginners. If you do not have a hygrometer, you can take a handful of compost

in your hand; when you squeeze it hard, about 2 or 3 drops should drip from your fist. If there

are many more, the humidity is excessive and it would be advisable to add some chopped paper
or cardboard, mixing them in the compost. If, on the other hand, nothing comes out, the

vermicompost would be too dry and it would be advisable to add some water.

Irrigation of worms should be done with non-chlorinated water (not from the tap), preferably

by sprinkling. This can be done manually or through micro-sprinklers in a larger installation.
Drip irrigation is another option, but obviously it can stress the worms. If you have to add water

by hand, do it very gently.

The irrigation frequency will not always be the same and will depend on the ambient
temperature, the interior of the pile, the texture of the compost, etc. So it can be every few days

or weeks, or as short as hours in extreme temperatures. Fairly periodic observation is important.

Irrigation is related to temperature, so this can also be controlled somewhat by

watering/sprinkling. The pile should not be kept below 10 degrees, if possible, nor above about

25 or 30 for most species. If we exceed these values too much, downwards or upwards, we run
the risk of them dying.

4.1.2. Temperature: Earthworm’s activity, metabolism, growth, respiration and reproduction
are greatly influenced by temperature. The temperature for the stable development of

earthworm population should not exceed 25°C. Although E. fetida cocoons survive extended

periods of deep freezing and remain viable but they do not reproduce and do not consume
sufficient food at single digit temperatures. It is generally considered necessary to keep the

temperatures preferably 15°C for vermicomposting efficiency and 20°C for effective
reproductive vermiculture operations. Temperatures above 35°C will cause the worms to leave

the area or if they cannot leave, they will quickly die. Bacterial activity is also greatly depended
on temperature as it multiplies by two per each 10°C increase in temperature and is quite active

around 15–30°C.

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